• Chris Andrews

North Wales Variety

With a month of work in the Dolomites coming up I thought it would be good to spend a week or so up in North Wales working through a few routes. The weather was slightly temperamental but in the end Luca and I climbed continuously with only one forced day off!

We began with a couple of days in the Llanberis Pass, climbing on Dinas Mot and the Grochan, ticking a few classic routes in the baking heat. The next day we took advantage of the nearby slate quarries as there was a storm forecast for the afternoon and we didn't want to get stranded on a sea cliff or mountain route. We were at the bottom of the Mau Mau when the storm arrived leaving us with no other solution than to prusik up our abseil rope (neither of us able to climb E4 in sheeting rain). Being able to escape both upwards and downwards from a climb are important skills which you should definitely learn before going somewhere too adventurous. Not to turn this blog in to marketing but get in touch if you'd like to learn some self-rescue techniques for rock climbing!

Luca prusiking up out of the Mau Mau area as the storm arrives. The route is just steep enough that the bottom was still dry

After returning to the slate quarries to finish off the Mau Mau, the next week saw us moving around Angelsey from Gogarth to Rhoscolyn where we varied between some vertical gardening, some choss climbing, and some fantastic actual rock climbing! Gogarth Main Cliff is definitely an adventure venue for anyone wanting a full on day.

Some of the more suspicious fixed gear found at Gogarth. (I didn't waste a quickdraw on it)

At the end of the trip we'd climbed a load of decent routes but some in particular stand out:

The Mau Mau E4 6a

Winking Crack E3 5c

Crowbar E1 5b

Nightride E1 5b

The Strand E2 5b

Using six pieces in a belay takes a variety of techniques, and a bit of experience to know when it's necessary

If you'd like to learn any of the skills you've just read about and become a more self-sufficient climber, or you'd just like to be led on an adventurous route then get in touch through the website

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